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"Exploring the Language and Stigma Surrounding Second-Hand Fashion: The Role of Semantics in Promoting Sustainable Shopping"
Second-hand clothing, also known as pre-owned or vintage clothing, has been gaining popularity in recent years as a sustainable fashion option. By prolonging the life of clothing, buying second-hand can help reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Padmavathy, Swapana, and Paul (2019) state all second-hand products have previously been owned by another consumer. The market for second-hand clothing has evolved from being a direct response to the need for inexpensive clothing for the poor (Le Zotte, 2017) to a growing market with shifting trends, consumer segments, and a wide range of items on offer (Kim and Woo, 2022). The global second-hand fashion market is projected to grow at a rapid pace, potentially three times faster than the global apparel market, rising from $96 billion in 2021 to $218 billion in 2026 (ThredUp, 2022). In the UK, 44% of all second-hand purchases are fashion-related, with clothing accounting for 27%, bags and luggage 9%, and accessories 8% (Statista, 2022), indicating a healthy market with potential for innovation.
Second-hand clothing has a range of business models including charity shops, consumer-to-consumer transactions, and business-to-consumer redistribution (Park, Kwon, Zaman and Song, 2020). However, despite its growth, there remains a negative perception of second-hand clothing, with it being viewed as inferior, dirty, potentially damaged, and sometimes of illegal origin (Gilquin, 2022). Gilquin's analysis of the Corpus of Historical American English (COHA) found that these negative perceptions have been present for centuries. However, their automated analysis also showed that positive connotations of second-hand consumption have increased in recent years, with the 1990s and 2010s showing the most positive representation. Our qualitative analysis revealed several positive aspects of second-hand shopping, which make it an attractive option for some consumers. This upward trend in positive connotations could indicate a shift in perception of second-hand clothing (Gilquin, 2022).
The language surrounding second-hand clothing can play a significant role in shaping consumer perceptions and attitudes towards it. Gilquin (2022) suggests that using terms such as "op-shop" (an abbreviation of opportunity shop used in Australia and New Zealand) can help to focus on the positive aspects of second-hand shopping, such as the potential for "chance discoveries". "Studies have shown that the language used to describe second-hand clothing can act as both barriers and motivators for purchasing it. For example, some synonyms for second-hand clothing, such as "pre-loved" or "reloved," may have more positive connotations than terms like "used" or "castoff." Additionally, the media and marketing messaging can also influence the cultural associations that consumers have with different terms. Some examples of terms that have been used to describe second-hand clothing include: "second-hand," "second chance," "used," "not new," "worn," "rehomed," "pre-loved," "reloved," "preowned," "retro," "vintage," "charity shop clothes," "jumble sale clothes," "hand-me-downs," "passed down," "castoff," and "thrifted."
A better understanding of the language used to describe second-hand clothing can improve the likelihood of promoting sustainable shopping outcomes for both businesses and consumers. Overall, second-hand clothing is a viable and sustainable option for consumers looking for an alternative to fast-fashion and overconsumption.
References:
Crewe, L., Gregson, N., and Brooks, K. (2003). ‘The discursivities of difference: Retro retailers and the ambiguities of 'the alternative'’ Journal of Consumer Culture, Vol. 3, Iss. 1, pp. 61–82. DOI. 10.1177/1469540503003001931.
Gilquin, G. (2022). “I never get a thing that ain’t been used”: A diachronic corpus-based study of second-hand consumption" Journal of World Languages, vol. 8, no. 2, pp. 254-283. https://doi.org/10.1515/jwl-2022-0015
Hur, E. (2020). ‘Rebirth fashion: Secondhand clothing consumption values and perceived risks’. Journal of Cleaner Production Vol. 27310, Article number 122951. DOI. 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122951.
Keim, C., and Wagner, R. (2018) ‘Back in time to move forward: An empirical study on luxury fashion vintage drivers’. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 9:2, 87-102, DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2018.1432408.
Kim, S., and Woo, H. (2022). ‘Big data analysis of trends in the second-hand apparel market: a comparison between 2014 and 2019’. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 26, Iss. 2, pp. 138–155. DOI. 10.1108/RJTA-12-2020-0139.
Le Zotte, J. (2017). From Goodwill to Grunge: A History of Secondhand Styles and Alternative Economies. The University of NC Press, Chapel Hill, NC.
Osterley, R., and Williams, I. (2019). ‘The social, environmental and economic benefits of reuse by charity shops’. Detritus, Vol. 7, pp. 29–35. DOI. 10.31025/2611-4135/2019.13849.
Padmavathy, C., Swapana, M. and Paul, J. (2019). ‘Online second-hand shopping motivation – conceptualization, scale development, and validation’. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Vol. 51, pp. 19-32. DOI: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2019.05.014.
Park, H., Kwon, T. A., Zaman, M. M., and Song, S. Y.(2020. ‘Thrift shopping for clothes: To treat self or others?’, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 11:1, 56-70, DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2019.1684831.
Schibik, A., Strutton, D., and Thompson, K. N. (2022). ‘What makes a product vintage? Investigating relationships between “consumer pastness,” scarcity and purchase intentions toward vintage products’. European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 56, Iss. 7, pp. 1830- 1855. DOI 10.1108/EJM-02-2021-0140.
Statista (2022). Second-hand purchases by category in the UK in 2022. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/997906/second-hand-purchases-by-category-in-the-uk (Date accessed 13/01/23).
ThredUp (2022). Resale Report. Available at: https://www.thredup.com/resale/ (Date accessed: 13/01/23).
Second-hand clothing, also known as pre-owned or vintage clothing, has been gaining popularity in recent years as a sustainable fashion option. By prolonging the life of clothing, buying second-hand can help reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Padmavathy, Swapana, and Paul (2019) state all second-hand products have previously been owned by another consumer. The market for second-hand clothing has evolved from being a direct response to the need for inexpensive clothing for the poor (Le Zotte, 2017) to a growing market with shifting trends, consumer segments, and a wide range of items on offer (Kim and Woo, 2022). The global second-hand fashion market is projected to grow at a rapid pace, potentially three times faster than the global apparel market, rising from $96 billion in 2021 to $218 billion in 2026 (ThredUp, 2022). In the UK, 44% of all second-hand purchases are fashion-related, with clothing accounting for 27%, bags and luggage 9%, and accessories 8% (Statista, 2022), indicating a healthy market with potential for innovation.
Second-hand clothing has a range of business models including charity shops, consumer-to-consumer transactions, and business-to-consumer redistribution (Park, Kwon, Zaman and Song, 2020). However, despite its growth, there remains a negative perception of second-hand clothing, with it being viewed as inferior, dirty, potentially damaged, and sometimes of illegal origin (Gilquin, 2022). Gilquin's analysis of the Corpus of Historical American English (COHA) found that these negative perceptions have been present for centuries. However, their automated analysis also showed that positive connotations of second-hand consumption have increased in recent years, with the 1990s and 2010s showing the most positive representation. Our qualitative analysis revealed several positive aspects of second-hand shopping, which make it an attractive option for some consumers. This upward trend in positive connotations could indicate a shift in perception of second-hand clothing (Gilquin, 2022).
The language surrounding second-hand clothing can play a significant role in shaping consumer perceptions and attitudes towards it. Gilquin (2022) suggests that using terms such as "op-shop" (an abbreviation of opportunity shop used in Australia and New Zealand) can help to focus on the positive aspects of second-hand shopping, such as the potential for "chance discoveries". "Studies have shown that the language used to describe second-hand clothing can act as both barriers and motivators for purchasing it. For example, some synonyms for second-hand clothing, such as "pre-loved" or "reloved," may have more positive connotations than terms like "used" or "castoff." Additionally, the media and marketing messaging can also influence the cultural associations that consumers have with different terms. Some examples of terms that have been used to describe second-hand clothing include: "second-hand," "second chance," "used," "not new," "worn," "rehomed," "pre-loved," "reloved," "preowned," "retro," "vintage," "charity shop clothes," "jumble sale clothes," "hand-me-downs," "passed down," "castoff," and "thrifted."
A better understanding of the language used to describe second-hand clothing can improve the likelihood of promoting sustainable shopping outcomes for both businesses and consumers. Overall, second-hand clothing is a viable and sustainable option for consumers looking for an alternative to fast-fashion and overconsumption.
References:
Crewe, L., Gregson, N., and Brooks, K. (2003). ‘The discursivities of difference: Retro retailers and the ambiguities of 'the alternative'’ Journal of Consumer Culture, Vol. 3, Iss. 1, pp. 61–82. DOI. 10.1177/1469540503003001931.
Gilquin, G. (2022). “I never get a thing that ain’t been used”: A diachronic corpus-based study of second-hand consumption" Journal of World Languages, vol. 8, no. 2, pp. 254-283. https://doi.org/10.1515/jwl-2022-0015
Hur, E. (2020). ‘Rebirth fashion: Secondhand clothing consumption values and perceived risks’. Journal of Cleaner Production Vol. 27310, Article number 122951. DOI. 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122951.
Keim, C., and Wagner, R. (2018) ‘Back in time to move forward: An empirical study on luxury fashion vintage drivers’. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 9:2, 87-102, DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2018.1432408.
Kim, S., and Woo, H. (2022). ‘Big data analysis of trends in the second-hand apparel market: a comparison between 2014 and 2019’. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 26, Iss. 2, pp. 138–155. DOI. 10.1108/RJTA-12-2020-0139.
Le Zotte, J. (2017). From Goodwill to Grunge: A History of Secondhand Styles and Alternative Economies. The University of NC Press, Chapel Hill, NC.
Osterley, R., and Williams, I. (2019). ‘The social, environmental and economic benefits of reuse by charity shops’. Detritus, Vol. 7, pp. 29–35. DOI. 10.31025/2611-4135/2019.13849.
Padmavathy, C., Swapana, M. and Paul, J. (2019). ‘Online second-hand shopping motivation – conceptualization, scale development, and validation’. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Vol. 51, pp. 19-32. DOI: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2019.05.014.
Park, H., Kwon, T. A., Zaman, M. M., and Song, S. Y.(2020. ‘Thrift shopping for clothes: To treat self or others?’, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 11:1, 56-70, DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2019.1684831.
Schibik, A., Strutton, D., and Thompson, K. N. (2022). ‘What makes a product vintage? Investigating relationships between “consumer pastness,” scarcity and purchase intentions toward vintage products’. European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 56, Iss. 7, pp. 1830- 1855. DOI 10.1108/EJM-02-2021-0140.
Statista (2022). Second-hand purchases by category in the UK in 2022. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/997906/second-hand-purchases-by-category-in-the-uk (Date accessed 13/01/23).
ThredUp (2022). Resale Report. Available at: https://www.thredup.com/resale/ (Date accessed: 13/01/23).
| Iaith wreiddiol | Saesneg |
|---|---|
| Teitl | Proceedings of the Academy of Marketing Conference 2023 (AM2023) |
| Cyhoeddwr | University of Birmingham |
| Statws | Cyhoeddwyd - 4 Gorff 2023 |
| Digwyddiad | 2023 Academy of Marketing Conference: From Revolution to Revolutions - University of Birmingham, Birmingham, Y Deyrnas Unedig Hyd: 3 Gorff 2023 → 6 Gorff 2023 |
Cynhadledd
| Cynhadledd | 2023 Academy of Marketing Conference |
|---|---|
| Teitl cryno | AM2023 |
| Gwlad/Tiriogaeth | Y Deyrnas Unedig |
| Dinas | Birmingham |
| Cyfnod | 3/07/23 → 6/07/23 |
NDC y CU
Mae’r allbwn hwn yn cyfrannu at y Nod(au) Datblygu Cynaliadwy canlynol
